Hardwick Hall

Elizabeth (Bess) Hardwick’s story is the tale of a tenacious social climber. When she married her first husband, she had an income of £20 per year. By the time she had survived four different monarchs and outlived four different husbands, she was earning £10,000 per year from her estates. She ended her days during the reign or Elizabeth I, with the title Countess of Shrewsbury, but she was known as “Bess of Hardwick” – thanks to this impressive house.

The lady herself:

Bess played the political game well at court, but with the passing of each husband she had to fight for the right to inherit their property. Hardwick wasn’t her only accomplishment though – she was also responsible for the creation of nearby Chatsworth House.

Hardwick Hall is thought of nowadays as a testament to Bess’ ambition for power and her status. Its ownership passed to the government in the 1950s when its owners could not meet the bill for inheritance tax, and thereafter it was given to the National Trust to be maintained for the nation. However the National Trust have worked in partnership with the V&A to maintain the extensive collection of ancient and rare tapestries housed at Hardwick.

Due to the need to conserve these tapestries, there’s very little daylight permitted in the majority of the rooms, but if you can look beyond the gloom (and fix your pictures in Photoshop) then you’ll find some pretty opulent furnishings.

For me, as always, the real treasures were found outside, enjoying the benefit of the sun shining down on them.

The walled garden just outside the hall blooms in May.

Venturing further into the grounds there are fairytale pathways, carpeted on either side in Wild Garlic (if you can stand the smell – fortunately I love it!)

And of course some friendly locals to get acquainted with.

Kedleston Hall

I’ve become so obsessed with Netflix’s “Bridgerton” that I’ve started shopping for Corsets. Yes, actual corsets. The most uncomfortable item of clothing imaginable, which women tried desperately for decades to be rid of… are now on my Amazon wishlist.

If you’ve not seen Bridgerton yet, it’s one of the most visually pleasing shows to ever grace the screen. It’s no Downton Abbey, but if you like both period dramas and ‘Gossip Girl’ then this is the series for you.  A show full of beautiful people, beautiful costumes and beautiful houses.

Kedleston Hall is not one of the stars of the show, but it very easily could be.

Note: I visited Kedleston Hall in 2018. The Hall itself is currently closed and the grounds are open to locals only in line with current government guidelines. Visit the link above for updates on reopening when lockdown restrictions ease.

I could just imagine the Duke of Hastings striding purposefully down those steps…

The interiors are just as impressive as the exterior too.

With the most equisite detailing:

Of course, not all of the treasures are on the walls…

The famously fabulous ‘Peacock Dress’ belonged to Lady Mary Curzon, who was Vicereine of India. She wore this extravagant dress to a ball at the Delhi Durbar. It was specifically designed for the stately occasion – owing to the venue being famed for its ‘Peacock Throne’.

The Times of India wrote in 1906 that “The dress she wore that night has become almost historical.” and that “the ensemble was such that not one of those who saw it is likely to forget.” The description they gave of her ensemble described “two shades of gold, hand embroidered into an elusive pattern, only betrayed as peacock feathers by the emeralds that centred each feather’s eye.” The dress was so opulent that it eclipsed her jewellery, and the writer of the article could only recall that “the rest of her jewels were, I think, diamonds.”

Once I’d finished oggling this masterpiece of fashion and craftsmanship, it was time to take in the scenery outdoors with my favourite adventurer.

There are miles of walks and lots of little wonders to see along the way.

Something for the Weekend: Harewood House Food Festival

Yesterday, Cali and I ventured to Harewood House to sample the delights of their food festival.

Cali had such a great time and we’ve both decided we’d like to move in – she has expensive taste! (Having Cali is somewhat like I imagine having a child would be – she’s into everything and very sociable. I’ve started walking her on a harness so I don’t lose her!)

I’m not going to waffle on with this post because Cali and I are heading out for our next big adventure today and we can’t wait to make the most of the bank holiday sunshine!

Details of the food festival here. It runs today and tomorrow. Entry is £10 (seems a little steep but you do get access to the gardens and grounds included in that.)

Dress: Tallgirls.co.uk (bought from their pop-up shop and seemingly not available online)
Shoes: Primark
Sunglasses: F&F